VISIT PANCHMARHI

If you can make one heap of all your winnings, and risk it on a week in the hills, would Pachmarhi reward you, my son? Armed with pre-arranged hospitality from MP Tourism, one sallied forth in search of colonial cottages and Raj nostalgia.

The drive in is a good one. Excellent straight road across the plain from Pipariya, the nearest railhead, and then a well-maintained hill road that winds its way up to Pachmarhi through the Satpura National Park. The temperature dropped perceptibly as we climbed, and was positively bracing by the time we got to the top. A quick run through the market area, several twists and turns, and we were home, at the Satpura Retreat.
On a quiet lane, far from the madding crowds at the market, its outer walls are painted a light green, and, for some strange reason, the roof tiles are a darker shade of the same colour.
That is your basic introduction to the decoration style that results from governments and public tenders, that one affectionately refers to as Erm, Government department Art Dekho (EGAD, for short). Colonial? Well, one has eaten the MPTDC’s salt, but one has professional obligations to this magazine. So, the kindest thing one can say is that the place has been made efficiently livable. Aside from some of the woodwork—which, in most places has been painted over rather than polished— once you’re inside your room, the only clue that you’re in a restored colonial cottage, is the height of the ceilings and the generous spread of the room itself. No four-poster, no carved wooden legs on the bed, no claw-foot bathtub. There is an ornamental fireplace, but the ‘ornamental’ bit is strictly in the eyes of its designer. And while the electrical fittings dangle from authentically long stems, they’re modern in the worst way. The bathroom fittings are, er, ah, um, well—you know, funny pseudo-bronzy faucets and stuff like that?

The food is decent and plentiful, and reasonably priced. But don’t expect to be downing mulligatawny soup and kedgeree. One eccentricity of the worthy MPTDC is that they have the same menu across all their properties, heritage or not. That said, there’s reasonable variety, and they’re flexible enough to rustle up an off-menu sandwich if your little heart so desires

The good side now. The rooms are comfortable, and just six rooms mean that the place is never crowded, and that a vigilant member of the staff is usually within polite hailing distance. The service is warm and friendly, and the staff seems to know just when you want to shoot the breeze a little and when to leave you alone.

A broad, cool wraparound verandah looks out on to a lovely little garden (make sure you get one of the three rooms that open out thataway) with a wonderful view of the Satpuras on the horizon. Bees and dragonflies go about their business, and birds dart around. So, if tranquillity and a generous dollop of nature rock your boat, this is a lovely place to get yours.

I would have been content to spend my stay ensconced in wicker chair with a good book, but Kedar has been instructed to get Lots Of Activity Shots. So, off we go in a hired Gypsy. But first, noblesse must be obliged, so we visit the two other heritage cottages MP Tourism runs, Rock End Manor and Glen View.

En route, we stop off at the lake. Brightly-coloured pedal-boats filled with noisy holidaymakers dot the serene waters, a horse, a camel— and a small quad bike! —await landlubbers’ custom. A boat tilts precariously as some youths stand up in it to pose for pictures, but, alas, does not tip over. Idiot-proof, these fibreglass flat-bottomed vessels, sadly.

Rock End is a sparkling white house perched on a small rise, off by itself, overlooking acres of meadows. Creepers, a nice garden, many flowers, and one beautiful painted glass window win my instant approval. Glen View is a rambling old place in its own grounds. But those grounds also have a new, large building which houses a conference room and the dining room (which is also the only MP Tourism property here with a bar), and a multitude of smaller buildings that our enquiries reveal are their standard AC rooms. It is, by far, and despite the newer constructions, the best-looking of them all, with the décor and fittings closer to matching the exteriors. One can easily imagine a coach and horses rattling up the driveway. Quite charming.

We spend the next day Doing Pachmarhi in no uncertain terms. The Church of the Annunciation (or was it Assumption? One’s upbringing is suspect.), better known locally as the Catholic Church, dating back to 1892, is in regular use. It’s in army property, so you’ll have to request the guards to let you in, but it’s worth a visit for the beautiful stained glass. The parish priest, if he is in, will personally welcome you at the door, and point out objects of interest. Among them, beautiful Belgian stained glass windows, and a carved stone pulpit and baptismal font. Overall, though, it has a mildly antiseptic feel to it. Christ Church, the Anglican Church is closer to the town centre. It is slightly older (1875) and in poor repair; sunlight peeps through holes in the roof, the pews are dusty. But it is in regular use too, with a padre coming in once a week. It’s a far more beautiful church, with it’s half-dome over the altar, wooden beams, and magnificent stained glass too, despite many a missing pane.

These, however, are not Pachmarhi’s main draw. What brings the teeming masses here, even more than the invigorating climate and the wonderful views, are the cave temples, dedicated mainly to Shiva (Jata Shankar and Mahadeo are the best-known). There are also cave paintings, most around 1,500 years old, but some date back as far as 8000 BC. The temples see brisk custom even off-season and the way of the devoted is lined with stalls selling all manner of religious aids.

For the adventure lovers there is rock climbing, and treks and nature walks to be had, but if you want to see animals, the best options involve overnight stays in forest guesthouses. Don’t expect to see any tigers, the "Satpura Tiger Reserve" signs notwithstanding.

Oh yes. In the area known as the Helipad or Landing Field, a private operator has a parasailing operation going. Kedar took a ride, and, desiring to fill the unforgiving minute—and not to look too wimpy—I did too. To the detriment of my coccyx, thanks to a clumsy landing. I type this perched on many soft cushions, but it still hurts more than foes or loving friends. Thanks to said affliction, one spent the last morning of our stay visiting Pachmarhi’s only (apparently) doctor, and being shot full of painkillers, so nearly missed out on the find of the trip.

Right next to the Satpura Retreat is Evelyn’s Own, the home of Colonel Rao and his wife. We dropped in on the advice of a taxi driver, and were rewarded amply. In the half-hour we spent chatting with the genial couple, we learn how they bought the place as their retirement home, how they began taking in house guests, and gradually converted some of the outer buildings—garages, stables, etcetera—into guest rooms. The rooms are cosy, all ACed, the service, great, and the company, most excellent. "It’s a quiet place, Pachmarhi," says ‘Bunny’ Rao, "and it was partly so that we would get some interesting company."

If it’s colonial ambience you want (forgive me, MPTDC, but those fireplaces!), I have to say Evelyn’s Own does it better.

USEFUL FACTS 
GETTING THERE
By air: The nearest airport is Bhopal, a little short of 200km. 
By rail: Pipariya (50km) is the closest station. Not all trains stop there but from Mumbai you could take the Kolkata Mail, which does (leaves 21.25pm, arrives 10.38am). The larger Itarsi junction is 100km away, and many choose to switch to road transport from there.
If you do go via Pipariya, you’ll need to get a taxi to Pachmarhi. It should cost around Rs 500 (off-season; prices will go up in summer). If you’re staying at an MPTDC property, take a one-minute walk from the station to their tourist motel, where the staff will help you get a car at reasonable rates.

WHERE TO STAY
MP Tourism’s colonial cottages— Satpura Retreat, Rock End Manor and Glen View—have six AC deluxe rooms each, priced at Rs 2,990 for a double. Don’t bother with the 15 standard AC rooms at Glen View; they’re newer constructions. For bookings contact Madhya Pradesh Tourism at 0755-2778383 (more numbers at www.mptourism.com).
Evelyn’s Own has 15 rooms, all ACed, from Rs 1,500 to Rs 2,500. Contact 07578-252056, evelynsown@gmail.com, www.geocities.com/bunnyrao27

WHAT TO DO
If you’re at the MP Tourism places, there isn’t much for those who aren’t TV addicts and can only take so much sitting around breathing clean air. If you want to see the sights, they organize tours. A Gypsy with driver will cost you Rs 650 for the full day.

Evelyn’s Own offers you tennis and badminton, some indoor games, a paddling pool, even a tree house. The Raos will also arrange treks and nature walks, and visits to the Satpura National Park. They’ll even get you a game on the Lord Lansdowne Golf Course for the price of the greens fees. Plus there’s a chance of fascinating conversation with the Colonel and his lady, raconteurs both.